Categories
- Aquarium Pets
- Birds
- Cats
- Dogs
- Exotic Pets
- Horses
- Other Pets
- Pet Care
- Pet Health
- Pet Nutrition
- Pet Training
- Uncategorized
Pages
Archives
Tag Clouds
Search!
Enter your keywords:- Editor Pick's
- Latest News
- Most Viewed
Online Shopping For Your Pet
If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to
Dog Trick To Cure A Nuisanc...
All breeds and sizes of dogs can be taught easily to speak, and the way to
Could Your Dog or Cat Be at...
Just like people, animals are susceptible to illness and stress. And, just like people, there is
Dogs in the Yard
We all know that dogs love to play outside, but we are have also
A Simple Guide to...
While allergy tests for your dog are available, their accuracy is still being determined. Trial and
How to Help Your ...
There is nothing worse than abuse, especially when the inhumane treatment is directed at
10 Helpful Tips f...
Taking your dog on a road trip can be stressful and scary, especially if
Recent Added Posts
Guide to Choosing a Ferret Cage
Choosing the right cage for your pet ferret is essential to its physical and mental health. A ferret’s cage is not merely a place to keep the animal safe while you’re not around to supervise; it’s her home. There are some specifics to keep in mind to ensure the cage you select is appropriate for your individual pet.
Choose a Spacious Cage
First, purchase a cage specifically designed for ferrets. Opt for the largest and most solidly constructed model your budget permits. Ferrets need enough space to remain active while caged, especially if they’re caged for six or more hours per day. At a minimum, a cage for a single ferret should be 18 inches high, 18 inches deep, and 36 inches long. Make sure there’s enough room for a litter pan, bedding, food, water, and play. Ferrets are a bit fastidious and they won’t appreciate these separate areas being too close together.
Multi-tiered cages are best, especially for young ferrets. They like moving from level to level. However, older ferrets tend to become arthritic and are less inclined to climb. Solid ramps are the best choice for ferrets; while they adeptly scale ladders, they have difficulty moving back down them. Falls from higher tiers are a risk to ferrets, so hang hammocks near upper floor edges.
Choose Appropriate Cage Walls and Floors
Ferret cages come in a variety of materials, including plastics, metals, and wires. Vinyl-coated metal wires are a good pick, but make sure the vinyl won‘t come off when your ferret chews them. Galvanized metal cages must be scrubbed down and rinsed thoroughly before use to remove zinc particles that are toxic to ferrets. Wooden cages absorb odors too well and glass enclosures don’t allow enough fresh air circulation, so both are poor choices for a ferret. Cage bars should be less than an inch apart to prevent your ferret from getting her head or legs stuck.
Solid floors are best because mesh and wire floors can hurt a ferret’s feet. If you get a cage that doesn’t have solid floors, cover them with linoleum tiles, a section of stain-repellant carpet, or cloth padding. Never use rubber or foam, as ferrets eat it, potentially causing intestinal blockages. Also, be sure the cage door locks securely; ferrets are known for their ability to escape.
Choose an Easy-to-Clean Cage
A ferret’s cage and the items in it must be cleaned regularly, so opt for a model that makes the job as easy as possible. Some cages have removable shelves and these are easy to clean; just make sure they are sturdy. Check that the cage door is big enough to easily remove the food bowl, litter box, bedding, and other items for frequent cleanings. Scoop the litter box and clean the food and water bowl and any soiled fabrics every day. Bedding, toys, other items, and the cage itself should be cleaned at least once per week.
Positioning the Cage
Ferrets are social creatures, so place the cage where people are often in sight. Keep it at least 6 inches out from the wall to facilitate cleaning around it. Ferrets don’t tolerate heat or cold well, so place the cage in a temperate room–around 65 to 70 degrees is ideal–and not directly in front of, above, or below heating or cooling vents. Keep the cage out of direct sunlight and avoid drafty areas and damp rooms like basements.
VetDepot.com, an online retailer of pet medications and supplies, provided this information.
Moving House With A Moggy
Image source: garethjmsaunders
Most people find moving house very stressful. Your sensitive cat will probably have a hunted look on her little furry phizog before you’re even aware of giving off stress signals. If she’s especially nervous, check with your vet, who may suggest a mild sedative (for the cat)! Some people suggest using a cattery for a couple of days but if catteries freak your cat out, this will not be a good plan.
Where’s that darn cat?
Thumps and bangs, boxes everywhere, will worry the cat even before the move. Cats are famous for their amazing vanishing acts so on moving day, shut yours up in a room with bedding, water, a litter tray and some favourite toys. Don’t feed her immediately before the journey, to avoid travel sickness. Next comes the battle to persuade her into the basket or carrier, which should contain newspaper and some familiar-smelling bedding. A car seat belt usually holds a cat carrier safely, so strap it in and wait for the pitiful yowling to begin!
At journey’s end, you’ll be busy instructing the removal men and making them cups of tea. For the poor cat, it’s her worst nightmare: strange people, strange noises, strange territory and smells. To make sure you don’t lose puss as soon as you arrive, keep her shut up again. Once, the advice was to butter a cat’s paws, to keep her busy licking herself. Much better to repeat the locked room process, making sure the cat has everything to make her comfortable and that everyone knows where she is. Once the men have left, you want to relax with a G & T or a nice cuppa. Nope, first you must see about settling in your cat. She won’t have been able to mark her new territory by rubbing her face on the important landmarks to show that ‘this is mine!’, so you will have to do it for her. One method is to wipe the cat’s face with a piece of clean cloth, picking up the pheromones she would spread around herself. Then wipe the cloth on strategic spots around the house at cat level. You can also do it artificially, using a facial pheromone diffuser. These are available as plug-ins, and will release a scent which cats like. Above all, show your little friend lots of love and attention.
Go, be free
You don’t want your cat streaking out of this mysterious new place as soon as she’s allowed out, so keep all doors and windows shut before letting her explore indoors. Opinions vary as to how long a cat should be kept shut in. Some people say an outdoor cat can be allowed out after two or three days but vets usually advise much longer, up to a month. When the cat is to be introduced to the outside world, don’t just open the cat flap and hope for the best. Choose a time when there’s someone at home who can escort the cat round the new garden. Keep her a little hungry before letting her out so that she’ll come running when you rattle the food bowl. If she’s happy on a leash for a while, so much the better. Make sure she has a collar with a name tag or even have her micro-chipped, in case she strays. With luck and good management, your cat will establish a new territory for herself and you can all be happy in your new home. Who knows? With typical cat perversity she may settle down before you do!
Percy Jackson is a pet expert and has been advising people on the best way to care for their beloved pets for many years. He dishes out the wisdom on his blog which you can read at www.percyspets.co.uk and is open to helping with your pet questions if you want to get in touch.
Animals With The Best Thermal Vision
A certain few animals are up there in the ranks competing for the title of the animal with the best thermal vision, but none do it quite so well as the snake.
Certain breeds of snake such as the python and rattlesnake have such acute thermal vision that it easily out-trumps any man made uncooled infra red cameras with a similar number of detectors, yet some of their serpent siblings have vision only good enough to distinguish light from dark.
How does it work?
These species of snake have special pits between their eyes and nostrils that sense minute temperature changes as infra red rays. The radiation they pick up is then used to generate thermal images – especially helpful for striking small prey in the dark.
Specialists in the field say that snakes detect this infra red through their adaption of a protein present in humans used to alert us to inflammatory pain. In snakes, the protein is located on the end of nerve fibres in the sensory pits, where the pit consists of an interior which is the same temperature as the snake’s body, and an exterior which heats up when close to a heat source.
The advantages of this infra red vision are many; infra red wavelengths are longer than those of visible light and allow the snake to pinpoint their target in three dimensions to attack with deadly precision. In fact, vipers can detect temperature changes of as little as 0.002 degrees centigrade up to a metre away with thermal and visual images being essentially superimposed in the animal’s brain.
But this amazing accuracy is not just used for hunting prey; their ability also serves as a fantastic means of identifying possible predators and ensuring survival.
To conclude…
So there we have it. The eyesight of snakes is a wonderfully diverse thing, and where some species are still struggling to tell whether it’s day or night, others have a perplexing perception far beyond that of human ability. Interestingly, outside of their internal thermal imaging most snakes have a very limited vision of colour and are not particularly adept at distinguishing objects… but I wouldn’t challenge one to a game of spot the difference any time soon.
Robin writes for DirectSight, a UK leader in online varifocals.
Low Cost Dog Insurance
How to Insure Your Dog for Less
You will certainly save on vet bills if you cover your pet, but you may find the price of the cover too steep. Thankfully, you can always go for low cost dog insurance. There are plenty of extremely affordable products in the market. Furthermore, there are many ways in 
which you can save money while providing the best protection to your pet. Use as many of them as you deem fit and you will see the premium fall dramatically.
Buy a policy as early as possible. Many specialists suggest getting one immediately after taking your new puppy home. This is one of the simples and most effective ways for obtaining low cost dog insurance. Younger animals are less likely to get sick or injured compared to older dogs so the premium will be smaller. Besides, provided that you have bought a perfectly healthy pup, there will be no pre-existing conditions excluded from the policy. You benefit in more ways than one if you take out a policy early on.
Go for less flexible low cost dog insurance to save. The level of flexibility determines the premium which you have to pay. If you go for a policy that has a cap per condition and a time cap, you will certainly find it more than affordable. There are plenty of such products called time-limited pet insurance. A lifetime policy, which has only an annual limit, on the other hand, is the most flexible and the most expensive.
How much can you save?
If you go for a time-limited product, the policy may be over 5 times cheaper than a lifetime one and this is a considerable saving. However, you have to be certain that it will work beneficially for you given your pet’s age, breed and general health. In general, policies with such limitations are not suitable for dogs predisposed to chronic illness and injuries.
Buy a smaller amount of vet fees cover in order to lower the premium. This is one of the most straightforward ways for obtaining low cost dog insurance. It is up to you to decide how much cover to buy. Figure out how much money cover worth £1,000 will cost you to make an adequate decision. When deciding on the right amount, keep in mind that the cost of treatment of certain illnesses and injuries may exceed £5,000.
Drop additional types of cover which you do not need so that you lower the cost of the policy. The typical covers included in most policies apart from the vet fees one are for advertising and reward, boarding fees, third party liability, holiday cancellation, theft and straying and death. In general, all of these are useful, but you have to ask yourself whether you will need them given your individual lifestyle and the lifestyle, behaviour and monetary value of your pet.
Figure out what you really can go without in order to buy low cost dog insurance. For instance, you may not find the holiday cancellation cover useful if you have an annual travel insurance policy that will provide compensation no matter what the reason for cancelling a trip is. Similarly, if you adopted your dog from a shelter, you will not require financial compensation for its loss. If you have a dog from a small breed and it does not go out of the house much, you may even drop the third party liability cover. Still, a safer option may be to buy just a smaller amount of it. In general, you can use this tactic if you are not sure whether you will need any type of additional cover or not.
Lower your premium by increasing the excess on your policy.
This is one of the most widely used methods for getting low cost dog insurance. However, it is also quite tricky so you should be extremely careful if you decide to use it. It is true that you will pay less annually or in the form of monthly instalments. However, you have to be prepared to pay a higher contribution to sum of money you have made a claim for.
The excess on the low cost dog insurance should be perfectly affordable to you. Try to estimate how many times you will have to pay such a fee. If you have a pet that is prone to illnesses or injuries and/or misbehaves often, you may have to make frequent claims. As a result, the policy may turn out to be a lot less cheap than you have expected.
Take advantage of discounts available. This is perhaps the most effective way for obtaining low cost dog insurance. You can get as much cover and flexibility as you need for less. The most popular discount is the online purchase one. You will be able to save just by buying the policy cover the internet. The multi pet discount is extremely useful to owners with more than one pet at home. Loyal customer discount may also be available from the insurer which you have got your car or home insurance from.
It should not be difficult for you to find low cost dog insurance. Just make sure that it will be useful to you as well as inexpensive.
Rob enjoys writing about pets we also have a website; http://www-doginsurance.com/ this site specialises in comparing dog insurance. We also run a kennel here in the UK that focuses on Dogs, Cats, Horses and rabbits.
Deworming and Prevention of Parasites in Pets
Worms in Pets
All about Worms, Deworming and Prevention
Worms are internal parasites most commonly living in the intestines. They are most common in dogs and cats even though other pets can have worm problems as well. These parasites can be dangerous especially to young animals. Some of them can be easily transferred to and infest humans. That is why deworming and prevention are essential.
Types of Worms in Pets
Roundworms
Roundworms live in the intestines of infested animals. They are white to yellow and can easily reach up to five inches in length. These worms and adults, in particular are easy to notice in the stools of infested animals.
Puppies and kittens are often infested with roundworms. This is because these are easily transferred from the mother to the fetus while it is still in the womb. Transfer through the mother’s milk is also possible. It has been noticed that in many cases the larvae transferred to the mother remain dormant for years and start developing when the animal is in the final stages of pregnancy. This makes infestation easier.
Roundworms can also be transferred from one animal to another without direct contact. If a pet eats the stool of an infested animal, the larvae present in the stool travel though the digestive tract and eventually reach the intestines where they develop. A female roundworm can give birth to some 200,000 larvae a day, so the risk of heavy infestation is high.
Tapeworms
Tapeworms are the most common internal parasites in pets after roundworms. Their body is composed of segments with small hooks and suckers that are used to stick to the walls of the small intestines. The body of a tapeworm may be as small as a couple of inches in length and can grow up to a couple of feet, even though most adults are between 4 and 6 inches long. During the lifecycle of the female worms the segments with eggs are released. These are visible in stools and around the anal area of the infested pet.
The eggs of tapeworms are transferred to the host pet through fleas and lice. A pet can get infested if it bites or swallows a flea or a louse and then ingests it. Some types of tapeworms are transferred to cats and dogs when they eat the meat of infested rabbits and rodents.
Hookworms
Hookworms are small and thin parasites. They stick to the walls of the small intestines and suck blood. Heavy infestations are dangerous and may have lethal consequences especially in very small, very old and chronically ill pets.
There are three ways in which an animal can get infested with hookworms. The parasites can be transferred from the mother’s uterus to the fetus. Puppies and kittens may ingest eggs transferred through the mother’s milk after birth. A soil with contaminated stool is full of larvae which can easily get to a host animal in case of contact.
Whipworms
Whipworms are usually 2 to 3 inches long. They are characterized by very thin almost thread-like bodies with one end being considerably thicker than the other. This is where the name whipworm comes from.
These parasites live in the last part of the small intestines and in the first part of the large intestines. These worms lay only a few eggs so their presence in the feces is often difficult to notice. At the same time, animal feces and soils contaminated with them are the main sources of contamination. A pet can easily get infested when it contact with such contaminants.
Whipworms are more common in dogs than it cats. Since they are difficult to spot, they may remain in the body for a long time and cause serious symptoms and health problems. Most pet insurance policies do not cover treatments for worms in dogs so it’s up to you to pay for this treatment. Frontline and other similar products can assist in destroying worms, but it’s best to consult your vet before applying any type of treatment.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The symptoms of worm infestation in pets do not vary much from one parasite to another and from one pet to another. Some worms, such as roundworms and the segments of tapeworms, are easy to observe in stools so owners can notice the problem well before symptoms appear.
Generally, the main symptoms of worm infestation include weight loss, dry hair, lethargy and overall poor appearance. Diarrhea is another common symptom of infestation. Sometimes the soft and liquid stools may contain traces of blood. Vomiting is another common sign of infestation. In some cases, worms can be observed in the vomit. Bloating is another symptom signaling the presence of worms. This symptom is most common in youngsters. Anemia and progressive weakness occur as a result of heavy and prolonged infestation.
Analysis of a stool sample is necessary for worm infestation to be diagnosed. The veterinarian will examine the sample under a microscope to determine the presence of adults and/or eggs. In some cases, the feces are free of eggs even in the case of infestation so other test and exams may be required for diagnosing. Generally, stool samples are analyzed during annual routine check ups.
Deworming
There are different types of deworming medications available to treat infestations with different types of worms. It is possible for one product to be effective against a number of internal parasites, but this is usually not the case. The purpose of the medication is to kill adult worms. In some cases, the drug may kill eggs as well. In others, an additional medication for killing the eggs will have to be administered.
Pet owners are highly recommended to have their pets diagnosed and then to obtain prescription medication. Over the counter deworming products often contain smaller dosages of the active ingredients that may be insufficient for removing the adults and the eggs. Similarly, if a product has helped for removing tapeworms, you should not use the remainder to remove roundworms, but get diagnosis and prescription from a vet.
Prevention
To protect your pet from worms, you should prevent access to areas where contaminated feces are present. Clean all stools after your dog does his business. Take him only to a dog park where all owners clean after their pets. Watch your dog closely when he is not on a leash to ensure that he does not eat stools. For cats, cleaning the litter box daily will help prevent infestation. Use flea and lice control medication to prevent external and internal worm infestations in cats and dogs.
Worms in pets are very common and are easily treated as the first signs of infection. Most providers of Pet Insurance companies don’t usually cover this type of treatment, so it’s up to you to provide this preventative treatment for your pet.
Random Horse Related Facts
People of all ages invest a lot of time, money and effort into horses – yet we seem to know very little about this magnificent animal!
Owning a horse is a way of life that involves a high level of commitment. Nevertheless, though, they still remain a mysterious and almost enigmatic creature to many of us, which probably explains why we are so fascinated to know more about them.
Did you know, then, that horses sleep standing up? Well, read on for more details about this interesting statistic and for more unusual horse-related facts.
Horses sleep standing up
Believe it or not, horses commonly sleep standing up, although they do also lay on the floor and nod off. Locking their legs enables them to sleep lightly while standing in an upright position. Exact sleep habits differ from horse to horse and species to species, but they have to lie down for about 45 minutes a day to experience REM sleep, which is vital to banish fatigue.
Horses can’t throw up
Bit of a weird one this factoid, but horses are unable to be sick. Fact. Why? Well, they have a ring a muscle called the cardiac sphincter that allows food stuff to flow into the stomach, but not in the opposite direction. While this may seem a pretty handy biological tool, it means that feeding horses too much food or the wrong type of food is potentially very dangerous.
Horses evolved from dog-like creatures
No, your eyes don’t deceive you – horses evolved from dog-like creatures known as Hyracotherium, which are thought to have been the height of a fox. The only living animal still walking the planet to this day that has similar features to a Hyracotherium is a tapir.
All hail horse rugs
Thanks to horse rugs, a popular piece of equestrian horse equipment, horses can now thrive in pretty much any condition that Mother Nature can throw at them. Advances in technology and the development of certain materials ensure horses can keep the ravages of some of the coldest places on the planet at bay.
Quick by name, quick by nature
Horses belong to the genus of animals known as Equus, which originates from the Greek word meaning quickness. Other notable members of the Equus genus include donkeys and zebras.
What’s in a name?
Different types of horses have different names. A filly, for example, is a female horse under the age of four, a foal is a horse under the age of one, a gelding is a castrated male horse, a stallion is a non-castrated male older than four and a colt is a male horse under four.
This random selection of horse facts comes thanks to Equestrian Clearance.
A Simple Guide to Dog Food Allergies
While allergy tests for your dog are available, their accuracy is still being determined. Trial and error (and elimination) of foods from your pet’s diet is going to be the best method for finding the cause of allergy type reactions.
Even when Fido has been on the same type or brand of dog food for years, he can still develop a food allergy. Food allergies are easy to confuse with food intolerances, which is when a food just doesn’t agree with your dog. The sign of a food allergy can also mirror other adverse reactions or disorders.
What are signs of allergic reactions?
A common sign is skin sensitivity (itchy skin especially near the face, behind, armpits, feet and ears). Maybe you have already tried the high quality, natural shampoos and are still noticing hot spots, constant scratching, or missing patches of fur.
Your dog may also be experiencing diarrhea and vomiting, or chronic gas and gastrointestinal problems. Even recurring ear infections can be a sign of an allergic reaction to something in yur dog’s diet.
What are the most common allergens?
The leading protein allergens for dogs include beef, dairy and wheat. Other common allergens include chicken, soy, lamb, fish, rabbit and egg. Also, milk may cause a reaction even when other dairy products do not. And to make it even more difficult, most dogs are typically allergic to more than one of the items on this list, or they have other allergies.
What do I do if I think my dog has a food allergy?
First, consult your vet. They may run a food allergy test, but your vet can also check to see if the sign are not pointing to other issues such as parasites. There could also be environmental triggers – seasonal allergens like pollen and grass.
Next, avoid people food and treats for a while, as well as the leading protein allergens mentioned earlier (beef, dairy and wheat). Select a premium dog food with a limited number of protein and carbohydrate sources, and put your dog on the new diet for four to 12 weeks. Document and review your notes with your veterinarian.
Your vet may recommend taking your dog off of anything that he has eaten before and going with an entirely new food. Once symptoms have cleared, you can reintroduce former foods, and if symptoms reappear (may take days to weeks) then you’ve spotted the food allergy.
How long before we’ve solved the allergen puzzle?
Because it can take several weeks for symptoms to appear, determining your dog’s food allergy (or allergies) can take a while. In fact, it takes months of following an elimination diet plan to spot and resolve your furry companion’s tummy woes. It is a time consuming process that is frustrating for both dog and human. While it requires a lot of dedication and time on the human’s part, it is important not to rush the process if you want to be certain you’ve narrowed down the culprit of the food allergen.
With more than a decade of experience as a practicing veterinarian, Susan Wright goes beyond providing care to family pets, she is also a writer and expert on wireless dog fences.
How to Help Your Dog Overcome an Abusive Past
There is nothing worse than abuse, especially when the inhumane treatment is directed at a victim that cannot properly defend themselves. Abuse is something that would never happen in a perfect world, and unfortunately, we do not live in a perfect world. 
Animal abuse happens every day leaving many dogs wounded and mentally defeated, scared for their lives. If you have an adopted dog, you know or suspect may have suffered abuse, or are thinking of adopting with an abusive past you need to know how to help him get through the physical and emotional traumas.
There are many different types of animal abuse, some are physical, some are developmental and some are emotional.
Physical Abuse
Physical abuse is what instantly comes to mind when most people think of animal abuse. This type of abuse includes beating, hitting, kicking and chocking the dog for any reason, as well as keeping a dog tied up or restrained in a crate or cage for extended periods. Physical abuse also includes improper hygiene, grooming and not taking your animal in for medical care when needed.
Developmental Abuse
Most people probably do not think about the developmental abuse that can come into play with animals. This type of abuse would include removing a puppy from its mother too soon or not teaching proper socialization and skills.
Emotional Abuse
Emotional abuse is just as damaging to a dog as physical abuse. Abusive yelling, isolation and neglect as well as subjecting a dog to unnecessary stress are all types of emotional abuse. This type of abuse can have lasting emotional damage on a dog.
Abused dogs will typically be extremely shy and overly cautious of people. They may end up hiding under tables and be extremely withdrawn from people and activities. In some cases they may act aggressive as a gut reaction to try and protect themselves. If an animal was neglected, they may also become attached to you as a caregiver and suffer from extreme separation anxiety.
Overcoming Abuse
As you begin to help rehabilitate your pet from past abuse you first need to understand that it will take time, in some cases a year or longer, as your dog learns to trust and love you and your family as his owner(s). Understand that when you rescue an abused animal, they more than likely will never be comfortable in all social settings and will always need extra TLC.
The most important aspect of helping an abused pet overcome his past is to give lots of love, praise and companionship. Keep your voice and any corrections clear, extremely positive and calm, and do not have high expectations for his comfort and interaction skills. Give the dog time, as much as needed, to become comfortable in his new surroundings.
By showing your dog that you will fulfill his needs he will begin to understand that he can depend on you. Make sure he is receiving nutritious meals, a warm place to sleep and daily exercise outside. To help your dog become accustomed to you, allow some quiet time in a confined space and allow your dog to warm up to you while you sit and read or do something other than stare at him. You can also help coax him by offering delicious treats, he probably will not take them directly from you, but the goal is to eventually have him be able to take a treat from your hand and even spend some cuddle time with you.
If there are situations or specific scenarios, like being put in a crate or having strangers visit, that terrify your dog do not put him in those situations. Rather wait until your dog shows signs of comfort in his surroundings and with the immediate family, and then and only then you can begin introducing him gradually to the situations that result in fear. Implement these situations from a distance and allow your pet to become accustomed and understand that nothing bad is going to happen just because they are near. Gradually increase the amount of exposure until your dog is at ease. Make sure you watch and read your dog’s reactions however and remove him from the situation if he becomes overly stressed. If you are uncomfortable helping your dog overcome his fears on your own, you should enlist the help of a professional.
Image Credit Donated to Indiana Animal Protection League
The author, Susan Wright DMV, has written books on the topic of dogs; writes informative articles on the care of domestic animals and serves as a wireless dog fence expert for DogFenceDIY.
The Five Strangest Domestic U.S. Pets
Are you in the market for an animal companion? Not everyone wants a kitten or a puppy these days to cuddle up with at night. Some go so far as to look for something exotic or unique. But sometimes, it’s less clear why a certain kind of pet has been chosen by a family.
In the U.S. there are plenty of laws that limit the types of animals families can domesticate, but that doesn’t stop us from trying to domesticate even the most fierce or repulsive creatures.
Here are five of the strangest domestic pets in the U.S.:
1. Wallaby – A wallaby is basically a mini-kangaroo. That being said they aren’t all that small. Sure, they weigh less than a large dog–approximately 30-50 pounds–but half of their six-foot length is made up of just their tail alone. They love to eat grass, various fruits and veggies, and special Wallaby food (for domesticated breeds). They can be house trained, but it has to be done at a very early age. They like people and they like to socialize. Who wouldn’t want one with their cute short arms?
Photo Credit: animal-wildlife.blogspot.com
2. Hedgehog – Pet hedgehogs can make any heart stop. Their tiny features and ball-like shape have helped make them a popular pet. The most common type in the U.S. is the African Pygmy hedgehog which is a very calm and quiet breed. Still, you have to be careful not to spook your hedgehog or he/she might shoot some of their 7,000+ quills in your direction. Ouch.
Photo Credit: factzoo.com
3. Skunk – A skunk may not sound like a pet to you, but most pet skunks sold in the U.S. have their foul-smelling glands removed around four weeks of age. They are highly intelligent animals, but are known to be stubborn and headstrong at times. They like to explore closed cupboards and doors. Skunks are extremely curious and this can lead them into danger. Keep those breakables locked up.
Photo Credit: flickriver.com
4. Madagascar Hissing Cockroach – While most people in the U.S. would not think of a cockroach as a desirable pet, some avid insect owners are thrilled to support this tropical insect. The cockroach has an average life span of 2-3 years, and are typically a dark reddish brown to black with wings. They like to hide, and are best suited to a 15 gallon tank at about 75-90 degrees F. They will eat dog food, as well as fruits and vegetables, though you’ll have to remove any remnants of dinner or it will spoil in the warm temperatures.
Photo Credit: worldrec.info
5. Sugar Glider – While a sugar glider may look like a flying squirrel, they’re different, and yet similar. Both creatures have big eyes and “wings.” They’re roughly the same size and live similar lifestyles leaping from tree-to-tree and foraging at night. The biggest difference is that the sugar glider comes from the same family as the kangaroo. They’re not endangered, but they are commonly traded illegally. They have become popular pets in the U.S. because of their unique features and physical traits.
Photo Credit: theanimalcabin.blogspot.com
Avery Lane is a freelance writer from Portland, Oregon. She writes about a wide variety of subjects, from lifestyles to home improvement and on topics such as roofing prices and furnace prices.
Our Sponsors
